Wouldn’t it be great if having smooth, beautiful skin came down to applying one or two products? Unfortunately, that’s not how it works—better skin is a matter of creating solid, lifelong habits and using the right products for the needs of your skin type—and understanding that your skin’s needs change with the seasons and with age. Whether you’ve been feeling overwhelmed about how to start a skincare routine that actually works, frustrated by a specific skin problem or simply looking to shake things up in your product lineup, we consulted with professionals and beauty insiders to bring you everything you need to know about building your own step-by-step skin care routine. Your first mistake, most likely, is doing too much or too little. “Most people are either overly aggressive or not doing enough for their skin,” says Dr. Jennifer Lucas, a board-certified dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon with the Cleveland Clinic. “Rarely do I see people in the middle. Any extreme that you do to your face or body is not good.” For morning and evening, here are the basic steps recommended for everyone (yes, men too!). Beyond these steps, a good skin care routine is about adding products for skin-specific issues—so keep that in mind as you read.
Morning skincare routine
Step 1: Cleanse
Start every day fresh-faced by rinsing off any sweat, dead skin cells and any other oil or grime leftover from rolling around on your pillow all night. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends an alcohol-free, non-abrasive cleanser for general use. It may come as a surprise, but there is a right way to wash your face. The AAD recommends that you wet your face first with lukewarm water and use only your fingertips to apply the cleanser. Using anything besides your fingers, such as a washcloth or sponge, may irritate skin. Then, rinse with lukewarm water and pat dry with a clean towel.
Step 2: Apply sunscreen
Daily sunscreen use is a critical step for preventing not only skin cancer, but also premature signs of aging, including wrinkles and dark spots. The AAD strongly recommends wearing sunscreen that is broad-spectrum (protects from both UVA and UVB rays) and has an SPF of at least 30 (filters out 97% of UVB rays). It’s important to apply sunscreen properly—apply an even layer (think the size of a shot glass) to your face and any other areas of skin that are exposed throughout the day. And remember to reapply it at least every two hours while you’re outside. Thinking about skipping this step on a cloudy day? Think again. “You’d be surprised to know how many rays get through the clouds that you think are protecting you,” says Dr. Lucas. “Even in the winter, the sun’s rays reflect off of things like snow and water. Any bright surface reflects back at you.”
Step 3: Hydrate and replenish
What you apply after sunscreen is really up to you and your skin’s needs, says Dr. Lucas. If you want to apply a moisturizer, choose one that feels lightweight on your fingers. “Truthfully, a lot of moisturizers are similar in how they work as far as nourishing the skin. I like the products containing hyaluronic acid because they tend to moisturize quickly, but it’s a matter of how your body tolerates them,” she says. You’ll know a moisturizer is too thick for you, for example, if you notice milia (tiny white bumps) or clogged pores. Pharmacist, Instagram influencer (@monavand) and wellness vloggerDr. Mona Vand echoes the importance of always leaving the house with sunscreen protection, and also highly recommends “vitamin C serum, specifically ascorbic acid and hyaluronic acid.”
Nighttime skincare routine
Step 1: Remove makeup
“Makeup, especially foundation, is like putting a paint layer on your skin,” says Dr. Lucas. “So if you’re laying on it and rolling around on your pillow, especially if you’re sweating a little bit at night, that’s just a build-up of dirt and grime that’s getting into your pores.” When choosing a makeup remover, look for one that is formulated to dissolve makeup without alcohol or fragrances, which may dry and irritate your skin. Many dermatologists recommend micellar water because it effectively lifts dirt, oil and makeup out of pores while keeping skin hydrated—and it’s suitable for all skin types.
Step 2: Gently cleanse
Wash the day away by following the same guidelines as your morning cleanse. Remember—gentle is the key word. If you’ve engaged in a morning or midday workout, don’t wait until bedtime to wash your face. Sweat irritates all skin types—not just acne-prone skin, says Dr. Lucas. Whenever you exercise, remember to wipe sweat from your face with a clean towel and wash your skin as soon as possible afterward. Dr. Vand’s nighttime skin care routine usually includes exfoliating and cleansing the same as in the morning, but she shares: “I’ll alternate active ingredients at night. I often do an overnight mask and enjoy a cup of herbal tea!”
Step 3: Hydrate and replenish
If your skin tends to feel a little dry after washing, you can’t go wrong with applying a lightweight, non-comedogenic (non-pore clogging) moisturizer before bed. Dr. Lucas also recommends retinoid products (eg, retinol, retinal aldehyde, retinyl esters) for nighttime skin care for their long list of nurturing benefits: promoting cell turnover, improving skin’s tone and discoloration, reducing lines and wrinkles and boosting hydration. Retinoid and retinol products are available by prescription and over-the-counter, depending on its strength or potency, so talk to your dermatologist about the best product for you. But remember—try not to overdo it on application. More product does not equal faster results. “It’s important to use just a pea-sized amount on your face,” says Dr. Lucas. “People tend to put way too much on and it can be very drying and irritating.” When used appropriately, however, topical retinoid and retinol products can form a cornerstone of your long-term skin care routine. Cori Zeichner, beauty blogger and Instagram influencer (@thedermwife), has been using topical retinoids in her nighttime routine for almost a decade. She notes: “At night, I first apply a moisturizer and then use a topical retinoid, which helps treat aging skin and keeps my adult acne under control.” Skincare professionals also emphasize the value in moderation, and knowing when less is more. “It is easy to overdo it and feel pressure to adopt a 20-step skincare routine,” according to Leila Kashani Manshoory, CEO of Alleyoop, a beauty brand focused on helping women better live their busy, on-the-go lives. “Sometimes the absolute best thing for your skin is to take a break, even if that’s just one day a week. There hasn’t been a better time to just let your skin breathe—free of makeup and layers of products. Always listen to your own specific skin needs as opposed to what you think you’re supposed to be doing because everyone’s skin is different.”
Tackling skin-specific issues
If you have dry skin
Whether you need a moisture boost because you normally have dry skin, or like many people, experience increased dryness in the winter months, consider adding a product containing hyaluronic acid to your routine. “You can find it in many over-the-counter lotions and creams now,” says Dr. Lucas. “It’s a very moisturizing product and does give back buoyancy.” If you’re fighting with dry skin on your body too, your shower may be to blame. According to the AAD, most people only need one shower per day. Excessive showering and using very hot water are associated with skin dryness and irritation. If it’s possible for you, take shorter or less frequent showers, use lukewarm water and moisturize immediately after toweling off. “When you shower, warm water melts oils off your body,” says Dr. Lucas. “So it’s important to give your skin back what you just drained it of.” For Elizabeth Dorow, cofounder and certified herbalist for Ona Organics, facial oil is a must-have product instead of a traditional moisturizer. “It helps support and repair the skin barrier’s function for even skin tone, hydration and to purify skin congestion. For best penetration, choose an oil with a small molecular weight,” notes Dorow.
If you have oily skin
If you have naturally oily skin due to genetics or experience it occasionally because of stress, seasonal humidity or fluctuating hormones, the key to keeping your skin balanced and breakout-free is using products that are oil-free, non-comedogenic and gentle. It may seem counterintuitive, but dermatologists agree that persistent scrubbing with strong, abrasive products is the worst thing you can do for oily skin. Treating oily skin too harshly can actually trigger increased oil production and exacerbate acne. “Even if you have oily skin, you still need to moisturize,” says Dr. Lucas. “I recommend products containing ceramides. They can help your skin restore and rebuild its moisture barrier.”
If you have acne
Still dousing your skin in astringent? Put the cotton ball down now. Many astringents contain alcohol or chemicals that are intended to remove oil and unclog pores, but for most people, they cause excessive dryness (especially when combined with other cleansing products), causing further irritation to breakouts, peeling and redness. Instead, integrate into your skincare routine a gentle cleanser that contains benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, says Dr. Lucas. Salicylic acid helps improve skin’s texture and appearance by removing dead or dry skin cells, unclogging pores and reducing swelling and redness. Benzoyl peroxide works similarly to treat and prevent acne. “For people who are working out, I recommend benzoyl peroxide products to help prevent facial, back, chest acne as long as their skin can tolerate them, without getting too dry or irritated,” says Dr. Lucas.
If you want an anti-aging boost
For anti-aging benefits, look for products that fight free radicals, such as those containing vitamins E and C. To reduce the appearance of discolorations, try a glycolic acid wash to brighten up the skin. Wondering if these skincare products should be in your routine yet? There really are no rules about the age at which you should start, says Dr. Lucas. “It really depends on how much your skin has been abused, especially by the sun or tanning beds, over time,” she says. “If you start noticing some texture or color changes, or you’re getting freckles or fine lines that you don’t like, then it’s probably time to start using them.” Be aware that many anti-aging products can have drying effects, especially if you use too much, says Dr. Lucas. “When trying a new product, see how your skin reacts after its first application and then gradually increase the frequency of use.”
Tips for men’s skincare
Men’s skin tends to be more oily and sebaceous than women’s skin, but the same tried-and-true rules of skin care apply.“It’s just as important for men to get the dirt and grime off their skin in the morning and before bedtime,” says Dr. Lucas. Practicing good shaving techniques is another essential way to keep skin looking young and vibrant. Here are a few tips from the AAD to prevent irritation and ingrown hairs while shaving your face:
Begin by wetting your skin to soften the hairs.Apply a moisturizing shaving cream.Shave in the direction of hair growth.Do not pull your skin taut while shaving.Rinse your razor after each swipe.Change your razor blade after every five-to-seven shaves.
When to see your dermatologist
If you’re struggling to find a skincare routine that really makes you feel good about your skin, talk to your doctor. Pay attention to patterns in how your skin behaves, especially if you’re struggling with dryness, redness and irritation, says Dr. Lucas. It’s important to determine whether your skin issues are related to improper habits or products, or whether there’s an underlying condition that needs treatment. And don’t underestimate lifestyle factors. “It also couldn’t be truer that great skin on the outside starts from the inside,” shares Manshoory. “A great diet, a great mindset, getting plenty of sleep and plenty of water are just as important as using the right products.” Want even more tips? Check out these TikTok skincare hacks you’ll want to try this year.
Sources
American Academy of Dermatology: “Face Washing 101"American Academy of Dermatology: “Ask a Dermatologist: Do Long, Hot Showers Damage Your Skin?“Medline Plus: “Salicylic Acid Topical"Healthline: “Everything You Need to Know About Using Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)“American Academy of Dermatology: “Skin Care Tips for Men”
